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Another 24 Hours in Vientiane

Wat Si Muang Temple, Vientiane

Still got time to spare after your first 24 hours in Vientiane?  Well there is plenty to keep you busy!

Breakfast and Human Sacrifices….

Try starting your day at Kung’s Café. Set at the end of a tiny cul-de–sac with higgledy-piggledy houses, this café has a uniquely Lao charm about it. Originally started 40 years ago, Kung and her daughter serve various dishes, but their speciality is their mango sticky rice pancakes, washed down with sweet, strong Lao coffee. It will set you up perfectly for the day ahead.

At the end of the same road is one of Vientiane’s most important temples. There has been a temple on the site where Wat Si Muang now stands for hundreds of years and the ruins of an ancient Khmer Temple can still be seen in the grounds. Known as the Mother Temple, Si Muang represented the good luck that the new capital would have when it moved from Luang Prabang over 450 years ago. In those days it was believed that a human sacrifice was necessary to make sure that Vientiane and her people would thrive. Mrs. Si was chosen and the central pillar of the temple lifted on top of her. Check out the statues to her memory around the grounds!

History and Culture

Around Si Muang are many art galleries, i-Cat Gallery is particularly worth checking out, and then stroll over to The Little House where, as well as delicious coffee in a calm environment, you can also check out the natural Indigo dyed Lao cotton and various handicrafts, before heading over to the COPE Visitor Centre.

In the 1960’s and 70’s the American bombing of Laos left it the most bombed country, per capita, in the world, even today. For 9 years an average of one planeload of explosives was dropped on Laos every 8 minutes. The implications of this are still being felt today, particularly in rural areas when the rains wash away the top soil exposing some of the bombies that have lain there ever since. Much work is being done on this, in the form of removing the UXO that still remains, but it is a huge task. COPE’s original mission was to help those injured by these explosives but over time it has expanded to help people with other issues, such as limb and sight problems. Their Visitor Centre gives a fascinating insight into what happened and the ways in which people are able to help now. It’s a definite must-see on any visit to Vientiane.  And, if you are keen to learn more before you come, try watching This Little Land of Mines.


You’ll be ready for a light lunch after COPE and PVO, just around the corner, is the perfect place. It has fabulous noodles and sandwiches, such as pate khao jee, based on the Vietnamese Bánh mì, and their passion fruit juice is excellent.  If you are still hungry then over the road you’ll find Bakery by Boris with some delicious pastries and coffee.

Time to Relax

In Laos, saunas are a way of life and the one next to Wat Sokpaluang is particularly popular. They have sarongs to wear and tea to drink as you steam in the natural sauna, which uses herbs from the woods around the temple. After this, try heading for a hairdressers. Lie back as they wash your hair, and massage your neck and shoulders unlike any hairdressers in the west! Of course you can have a cut while you are there, but many people head there for  a hair wash and the ultimate in a head and shoulder massage instead.

Dinner and Early Evening

After this day, you’ll no doubt be ready for a refreshing cold Beerlao and where better than Suntara where the third floor views of the sun setting over the Mekong are hard to beat. They have some great Lao and western food choices there, but after sunset you could instead head over to Doi Ka Noi and experience Noi’s amazing cooking. With vegetables from her own organic garden, the menu offers the best of Lao food, cooked by an adventurous chef who is keen to introduce you to the wonders of Lao cuisine.

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